“It’s not entirely accurate to call Barry Popkin a flame-thrower, because he doesn’t ignite controversy for the sake of igniting controversy. But the economist and nutrition professor at UNC-Chapel Hill has sparked his share of conflagrations in the food wars. Just last week, he declared that red meat is not only bad for human health, but a cancer on the global environment. Not surprisingly, the meat people were ticked, calling his comments unfair. They took a place in line behind the soda people, and the high-fructose corn syrup people, and the infant-formula people — all of whom Popkin has stirred up during his 30-year career.”